Lichfield

 

We had a trip to Lichfield recently mainly because E was working there for the day and we just wanted to pop in and see her to give her some moral support.

I must admit I do like Lichfield - in fact, in view of the fact that if E's flat purchase ever goes through OH doesn't want to move miles and miles away, Lichfield seems a good compromise for a place to live. However, I do not recommend going into the City Centre on a Saturday as it was heaving with people and not the most enjoyable place to walk round.

We were lucky in the Byrd Street car park as they were queueing all the way round but we managed to grab a space as we were in the right place when someone left!

There is a nice view of the Cathedral from by the car park and Minster Pool.

Lichfield is one of the smallest of England's cathedral cities.  It developed as a town in Anglo Saxon times when Chad in 669 made it the seat of the Bishop of Mercia.

The first church was probably located on the site of the present day cathedral. Being the religious centre of Mercia the town developed quickly.

In the 12th century Bishop Clinton fortified the Close with a wall and encouraged the town to grow with the ladder shaped street pattern that can still be seen today.  In 1291 a bad fire destroyed the churches, friary and much of the city.  The town was gradually rebuilt over a period of time and finally became a prosperous market town and trading centre again.

In 1538 during the Reformation the Franciscan Friary was dissolved and the shrine of St Chad was destroyed. Much damage was done in the Civil War of the 1640's as Lichfield was a Royalist stronghold and there were three sieges which led to much damage being done to the cathedral and surrounding Close.

During the C18th Lichfield became an important cultural and intellectual centre of the Midlands.  It was home to famous people such as Erasmus Darwin, David Garrick, Samuel Johnson and Anna Seward (more info below).

In the C19th the population grew but the arrival of the railways meant that the city was no longer an important stopping point on the coaching routes.

E and I visited the Samuel Johnson birthplace museum and bookshop a few years ago if you would like to see the post please see Samuel Johnson Birthplace Museum

A City of Philosophers

During the C18th Lichfield was renowned for its "good conversation and company".  It was a Cathedral City with religious influence in Staffordshire and also an important intellectual and social meeting place.

Samuel Johnson  (1709 - 1784) was born in the house in the photo above in Breadmarket Street.  He moved to London in 1737 and over the course of nine years wrote the first major dictionary of the English Language which was published eventually in 1775. He was a leading literary figure of his time.

Erasmus Darwin (1731-1802) had a successful medical practice in Lichfield and was also a poet and inventor.  His ideas on evolution influenced the work of his grandson Charles Darwin.  I have visited his house also now a museum and if you would like to read the post please see Erasmus Darwin's House  .

Anna Seward (1742-1809) an C18th English Romantic poet often called the "Swan of Lichfield".  She lived at the Bishop's Place and her father encouraged her to write poetry and Erasmus Darwin helped her consolidate her skillls.  Poems were finally published when she was in her late 30's.

St Mary's Church now a library and heritage centre.

Statue to commemorate Samuel Johnson

I saw this by the market and it made me smile!

Statue of James Boswell who was a friend and biographer of Samuel Johnson.

Time for a hot chocolate sitting outside Costa

Waxwing berries

At this stage I tentatively mentioned a look at the Cathedral as I was fed up with the crowds and thankfully B and D agreed to have a quick look.

There was a bit  of drama at this stage - we had noticed a helicopter circling the city centre and it suddenly came down very low and landed in a field near the Cathedral.  I am not sure if it was just a training flight or something more serious.

Gateway in the Old Stables by the Close

Speaker's Corner

Minster Pool

I'll write a separate post on our visit to the Cathedral but at least I spent a little more time inside this visit!

I hope everyone is staying safe and well.

All photos taken by me with the Panasonic Lumix FZ330 bridge camera (I don't particularly rate my photos but  if anyone wishes to use one I would be grateful for an email first - thank you).

Reference: Lichfield Heritage Trail Leaflet

Lichfield - Samuel Johnson Birthplace Museum

E and I had a trip out to Lichfield on Monday afternoon. Despite a dry afternoon being forecast, it was tipping it down when we arrived, so we first had coffee and cake and then visited the Samuel Johnson Birthplace Museum and Book shop.

The house was built for Michael and Sarah Johnson (Samuel's parents) in 1707/08. It was both a family home and a bookshop. Sarah, at the age of 40, gave birth to Samuel on 18th September, 1709. He attended Lichfield Grammar School and in 1735 married Elizabeth Porter or Tetty as he called her. She was 20 years older than Samuel and had 3 grown up children. They set up a school in Lichfield which closed after only 18 months and, aged 27, Samuel moved to London to seek work. He wrote articles for The Gentleman's magazine, published a satirical poem entitled "London" and a biography of the poet Richard Savage. Samuel and Elizabeth had little money but Samuel gained a reputation for diligence and his knowledge of literature.

He was asked to write an English dictionary and began work on it in 1746. In 1755 his "Dictionary of the English Language" was published. This was not the first dictionary but it was the most complete and the first to include sources of words. When it was first published the Dictionary was very expensive but subsequent edited concise editions were more affordable and it set the standard for dictionaries for the next 150 years. Johnson continued to write essays and a play "Irene" was staged at the Drury Lane Theatre. Elizabeth died in 1752. Johnson was still relatively poor until George III awarded him a pension of £300 a year in 1762. Samuel became one of the great "celebrities" of the period and was invited to many dinner parties. He continued to visit Lichfield throughout his life and travelled to the Western Isles of Scotland with James Boswell in 1773. Samuel and James had originally met in a bookshop in 1764 and Boswell eventually wrote "Life of Samuel Johnson". Samuel continued to write, publishing an edition of Shakespeare's works, a book "Lives of the Poets" and regular revisions of his Dictionary. He died on 13th December 1784 and was laid to rest in Westminster Abbey.


Michael Johnson's Work Room

The Parlour

A copy of a portrait bust of Samuel Johnson made by Joseph Nouekensin in 1777.

The original portrait bust

The room where Samuel was born.

His wife, Elizabeth

The museum was very interesting and there was a lot to see - its well worth a visit if you ever find yourself in Lichfield.



We then had a wander round the rest of the City Centre.



St Mary's church - the present building dates back to 1868 and is the fifth church on the site since medieval times.

Samuel Johnson Commemorative Statue

Statue of James Boswell

Five Gables

The Guild Hall

Beautiful flowers in this tub but what a shame about the slug pellets :(

I was hoping to pay another visit to the Cathedral but we just didn't have time. Once E finds herself near clothes shops you just can't get her away!! I will return to the Cathedral later this year - I understand the restoration and repair of the Lady Chapel is now complete and I shall make sure I go when the Chapter House is open.




Reference : Souvenir Guide of the Samuel Johnson Birthplace Museum and Bookshop