Isle of Wight - Part 8: Niton Smugglers' Trail and a Walk to the "Pepperpot"

 

Niton Smugglers' Trail

D and I were thrilled to find out that Niton had its own smuggling trail.  One evening we visited a few of the local places on the map which were near the cottage.  We did plan to visit a few more on the last morning of the holiday but in the end it was decided we would go straight into Yarmouth. Hopefully, when we next visit we can do more of the trail.

The Isle of Wight's southern coast has many treacherous rock platforms which in centuries past were places that revenue cutters were wary of approaching.  Therefore, any smuggler who knew his way through the rocks was able to smuggle goods into Niton.  There do not appear to have been any large smuggling gangs although some Niton families such as the Wheelers, Willis's and Snuddens were heavily involved and many locals enjoyed the free trade brought in by smugglers.

A local record in the 1830's suggests that most of Niton was involved in smuggling in one way or another. Niton was so important in the trade that it had its own coastguard station and look-out building.  The Trade used 50 ton wherries which sailed at night.

Map of the Trail

St John the Baptist, Niton

Smugglers used empty tombs and special hiding places in churches to hide their contraband.  In 1808 there is a record of a close encounter between the Revenue Men and a group of Niton smugglers led by a Mr. Mussel.  The smugglers saw a warning light in a window of Hervey's Cottage, Church Street, and they hastened quietly to an empty tomb in the north side of the churchyard. They hid in the tomb while revenue patrols hunted unsuccessfully for them.  The smugglers did not realise the patrols had left and so remained in the tomb until dawn.  As they left the tomb a sexton Mr Long arrived for a service and he was horrified by what he saw thinking the dead were rising from the tomb.  He left the churchyard hastily crying out that the Day of Judgement had arrived.  It was quite a while before he could be calmed down!

The Church

The Cheek Mausoleum where the smugglers hid.

Hervey's Cottage is opposite the cottage where we stayed.  I couldn't find a plaque showing its place on the smugglers' trail though. This cottage would shine a light from a small window to warn smugglers that the revenue patrols were about. In 1603 the Snuddens who lived in the cottage were heavily involved in the smuggling trade.  The cottage was later leased to the Willis family (1757-1825) by Lord Edgecombe, Lord of the Manor, and they were keen supporters of the smuggling trade.

The Star Inn

When smuggling was at its height Niton had seven pubs.  Today only the Buddle and White Lion still exist as public houses.

The Star now a private home dates back to c1615.  In July 1837 the innkeeper, a James Hillier, was jailed at Winchester for six years as he had failed to pay a fine after being found guilty of "harbouring". There is a rumour that the pub had a secret second cellar accessed behind a piece of furniture. However, recent renovation work at the house has not found any evidence of this cellar.

The White Lion

The landlord, Thomas Morris, in the 1830's used to go on board ships returning to England to buy goods such as silks, tobacco brandy, tea. By doing this he avoided paying any duty and when he returned to the pub with them he would sell many of the items while sending the brandy down to his cellar.  However, in 1842, he was finally caught and sent to Winchester Gaol.  

St Catherine's Coastguard Station

We didn't actually visit this location in person on this holiday (the photo is from D's coastal walk) although we have been on a tour of the lighthouse on previous visits.  In the C19  this was also a coastguard station which often used a boat to search suspicious vessels.

Again I have "cheated" a bit as these photos are from a past visit to the Buddle Inn.

The Buddle was a popular unlicensed drinking house from around the 1550's and only gained a licence in 1859!  The pub has always been linked to tales about smugglers and smuggling.

I would love to know if the cottage we stayed in was involved in the smugglers' trade. Although a book I bought D for his birthday on Smugglers' Pubs of the Isle of Wight suggests that our cottage was one of those that shone a light out of a window if customs officers were about. So it is possible it was involved.

On the final evening at the cottage D and E decided to walk from Niton to St Catherine's Oratory on St Catherine's Down.  It was a long steep walk and took over 2 hours there and back.  I didn't go with them - too far for me! although I did visit the Oratory on our last holiday there where I took a shorter but very steep route from the nearby viewpoint car park.

So a few photos from their walk.

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Nearly there!

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There are wonderful views from the top of the Down.

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St Catherine's Oratory (known locally as The Pepperpot) - a medieval lighthouse.

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The tower is all that remains of an oratory built c1328.  In 1313 Walter de Godeton, Lord of Chale, stole wine from a shipwreck in Chale Bay.  The wine originally came from a monastery and he was fined and threatened with ex-communication unless he built an oratory with a beacon on St Catherine's Down.  He paid a priest to keep the light going and to say masses for the souls of those drowned in the shipwreck. With the Dissolution of the Monasteries around 1538 the oratory was no longer used although the beacon continued to be lit until the C17th.

The Pepperpot is a 4 storey octagonal structure with 8 windows at the top for the lantern.

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In the photo of this view I think you can make out the Spinnaker Tower at Portsmouth in the centre of the picture.

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Return Journey

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E had thought she had spotted a badger one night in a field near the cottage but wasn't sure so as they walked back she was thrilled to see one run down the road from this sett.

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Finally, the jigsaw D completed during the holiday.

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The penultimate post from the holiday will be about our visit to the pretty village of Brighstone including a trip to the church and the Dragon Tree followed by a pub meal at The Wight Mouse in Chale.

Reference: The Niton Smugglers'  Trail leaflet

English Heritage website page on St Catherine's Oratory

All photos taken by me with the Panasonic Lumix FZ330 bridge camera and those marked *D taken by my son with the Canon SX50HS bridge camera. (I don't particularly rate my photos but if anyone wishes to use one of mine or my son's I would be grateful for an email first - thanks.

Isle of Wight - Day 7, 6th July Part 1: "The Pepperpot" and Blackgang Chine

Thursday was hot and sunny again and a little more humid. We drove first to the car park viewpoint just above Blackgang Chine where if you cross the road and climb up the steps and up onto St Catherine's Down you can visit St Catherine's Lighthouse (Oratory) which is known locally as "The Pepperpot". I love the walk up here you get stunning views and there is something rather mystical about the Oratory.

Tennyson - raring to go!

The route - you can just see the Pepperpot - a medieval lighthouse - at the top.

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View towards Compton Beach and Freshwater Bay

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Getting higher

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The Chale Bay Mackerel Scomber scombrus

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Nearly there.

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The tower is all that remains of an oratory built around 1328. A local legend tells that in 1313 Walter de Godeton, Lord of Chale, stole wine from a shipwreck in Chale Bay. The wine had originally come from a French monastery and he was fined and then threatened with ex-communication unless he erected an oratory with a beacon on Chale (now St Catherine's) Down as his punishment.

He paid a priest to attend and keep the light going and who said masses for the souls of those drowned at sea in the shipwreck. When the monasteries were dissolved around 1538 the oratory was no longer used although the beacon continued to be lit until the 17th century.

For many years we used to stay at Thornbury House in Chale which had views towards the Down and the Pepperpot from some of the windows and I often used to look out at night half expecting to see a light flickering in the windows of the Oratory - I have a vivid imagination!

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The Pepperpot is a four-storey octagonal structure build of greensand stone. The eight windows on the third floor form the lantern.

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Nearby is a Bronze Age Burial Mound. Excavations revealed a medieval lime kiln close by which may have been used to produce mortar when the oratory was built. A 1925 excavation exposed human and animal bones and flint tools.

Views towards the interior of the island.

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Me and Tennyson with the "lighthouse"

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Tennyson feeling rather chuffed he accompanied us as Osborne has never been!

One day I would like to continue walking along this particular Down but B and E had remained in the car so it was time to return.

The present day lighthouse, built in 1837 and administered by Trinity House, is at St Catherine's Point, Niton and that is well worth a visit too especially the guided tour.




We spent the rest of the day at Blackgang Chine - the UK's oldest Amusement Park. I do feel a bit hypocritical writing about this visit after my comments about the one at Alum Bay but to be fair Blackgang has a great selection of things to see and there is something for all ages although primarily it is a great place for children. I think that is why D and E insist on returning every holiday as it reminds them of the magic they felt on their first visit when young. From my point of view it meant there were plenty of photo opportunities for Tennyson and the place does have a sort of old-fashioned charm to it!!

Tennyson meeting one of the Blackgang pirates.

First we visited the "Restricted Area" - land of the dinosaurs.

Tennyson getting ready to run if the dinosaur should think of moving which, of course, it did!

Ornitholestes

This was as close as Tennyson was prepared to go!

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Tennyson feeling rather brave sat on this fence post and

even braver!

The park is well laid out and there are lots of shady areas through woodland.

Giant Bug Walk

Tennyson making friends with a gnome.

By this time I had reached Pirate Cove with picnic areas and pirate ships for children to play on. I had lingered behind taking photos and this area was absolutely heaving with school parties and I had no idea where the others had gone. As usual I had left my mobile in the car - I really should have learned my lesson by now!

I decided to walk to Cowboy Town in the hope that was the way they had gone passing Rumpus Mansion (think haunted house) on the way.

More shady woods and Hart's Tongue Fern

Tennyson makes a "friend" but

was absolutely terrified when he came across this family party as father/mother bear looks exceedingly fierce!

I eventually got to Cowboy land - no sign of the family just zillions more school parties so I beat a hasty retreat (I was getting very hot and bothered by this stage) and returned towards Pirate Cove where I came across a new area of an Underwater World. (It later turned out B, D and E had gone in here which must have been why I missed them).

Tennyson quite enjoying his underwater journey.

I wandered off to Fairy Land

Tennyson was most put out at the non-appearance of a prince.

Tennyson found a lovely little house and

chair although I had to point out they were still a little too big for him.

I sat for ages on a bench in this area and eventually was re-united with the others as at long last they decided to visit Fairyland. D took me back to see the weeping angels which I had missed.

I think weeping angels are probably one of the most scary of the Doctor Who "baddie" inventions - they give me the creeps.

Dodo Land is also new.

Tennyson finds yet another pirate!

Tennyson having a rest among the hydrangeas.

There is a hedge maze and a lovely rock and water garden to explore

together with a quirky chimney pot garden.

Then onto Nursery Rhyme Land were Tennyson met an "ent"

and then a friendly pixie.

Time for a sit down and icecream while the others went on the water slide and rollercoaster - one of these visits I will pluck up the courage to have a "go" too.

Hall of Mirrors

Tennyson and whale - I wasn't going to go any closer as the creature spurts water all over you as soon as he senses your presence.

Tennyson found another scary monster as we walked towards the exit.

Views along the coast.

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A flock of herons D captured flying in from the sea.

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Far too many photos - apologies - I will save the visit to St Andrew's Church, Chale and a pub meal for another post in Part 2. Hopefully, less photos!


*D - Photos taken by D with the Canon bridge SX50