Anglesey -Day Two - Sunday, 16th June, Part 1: St Seiriol's Church and Holy Well, Penmon Priory and Dovecote

On Sunday we decided to stay local to the cottage and explore the area around Penmon.



The earliest churches built on Anglesey were connected with the cells of hermits. The monastery at Penmon is believed to have been founded by Saint Seiriol who lived in the late 6th century. He was the son of King Owain Danwyn of Rhos and had two older brothers King Cynlas of Rhos and Einion of Lleyn. According to legend Seiriol used to meet his friend St Cybi of Holyhead in the centre of the island. Seiriol would walk with his back to the rising sun in the morning and with the setting sun behind in the evening and was therefore called Seiriol the pale or fair (Seiriol Wyn) whereas Cybi who walked towards the sun became tanned and was called Cybi the golden (Cybi Felyn). Saint Seiriol retreated to Puffin Island (Ynys Seiriol) when he became old and built another monastery. He was buried on the island but his remains were later removed to the priory at Penmon.

In 971 the wooden church at Penmon was looted by the Danes and burnt. Later a stone church was built on the site and this is the church we see today. The oldest part is probably the tower which is early 12th century and the nave was finished around 1140. The transepts and tower were constructed 1160-70 and the chanced added 1220 - 1240.

It was originally a clas church held by the community but in the 1230's it became a community of Augustinian (or Black) canons.

Following the Dissolution of the Monasteries under Henry VIII the land passed to the local Bulkeley family who enclosed the land and created a deer park.

Penmon white limestone was quarried from land above the priory and was an important building stone used at Beaumaris Castle, Dublin wharfs and for the Menai bridges. Lime kilns can still be seen near the coast.


St Seiriols Priory Church

Penmon Priory - buildings added when the Augustinian canons arrived.

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The 16th century Priory House is a private dwelling and not open to the public. The grassed area between the church and priory ruins was once the cloisters.

First of all I explored the chancel area of the church

Stained glass 1984 (Celtic studios) portraying the Risen Christ appearing to Mary Magdalene.

Stained glass 1969 (artist Frederick W Cole) Christ calming the storm with St Seiriol and St Cybi

Stained Glass 1954 (Luxford Studios) - Virgin and Child, St Elizabeth and the young John the Baptist

Stained Glass 1912 - The Ascended Christ, Christ with Children and the Miracle of the Loaves and the Fishes

Then into the nave

Arcading in the South Transept 1170.

The two carved figures are probably 12th century - man with an axe and a very weathered sheila-na-gig

Stained glass in the South Transept ~around 1855 with fragments of 15th century glass (artist David Evans) St Christopher and St Seiriol

10th century cross - one arm has been sawn off so it could be used as a lintel for one of the refectory windows!! Sorry I couldn't get better photos - the whole nave, despite lights, was quite dark.

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Font c1000 - this may be the re-used base of a free standing cross and the design includes the three cornered knot where the unbroken line symbolised eternity.

Celtic Cross c1000 - this is older than the present building and like the cross in the South Transept it originally stood outside in this instance to the north of the church. It was brought inside to prevent further weathering. The interlace patterns of the carving suggest a Scandinavian influence. I failed to make out much detail and again the photos aren't good but on the front the badly worn figures include a man on a horse and possibly the Temptation of Saint Anthony when he was surrounded by demons.

Tower arch ~1160. The pyramidal stone roof of the tower (see earlier photo) is one of the few examples remaining of a type used by the Norman stonemasons. Two of the arches of the tower crossing are a particularly fine example of Norman (Romanesque) carving in North Wales with chequer and chevron carvings.

I haven't been able to find out any details of this rather lovely window in the nave.

Churchyard

South Doorway ~1150 with a tympanum showing a weathered dragon with its head twisted backwards.

The ruins of the Augustinian Priory Refectory and Dormitory are today maintained by CADW. The ruins consisted originally of 3 storeys - cellars, dining room and dormitory. During meals the monks remained silent while a monk seated by a window would have read aloud.

St Seiriol's Holy Well

Fishpond used by medieval monks

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St Sieriol's Holy Well was once thought to have healing powers and in the past was visited by pilgrims. Baptisms also took place at the well. This belief in the power of wells may have from the old pre-Christian Celtic religions.

It is possible that the foundations of St Seiriol's cell can be seen by the well. The well and part of the stone work is 6th century but some of the upper brickwork dates from the 18th century.

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There was a very peaceful and tranquil atmosphere and a feeling of stillness and timelessness in the area around the well.

Ivy Leaved Toadflax

The Dovecote was built around 1600 by the Bulkeley family and it is one of the largest and best preserved dovecotes in Britain. It contains around 930 nesting holes and the pigeons could fly in and out via the cupola. The central pillar is unique and may have assisted the pigeon keeper in the use of a ladder to reach the nest holes.

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View towards the Menai Straits

Black Medick

Timothy had enjoyed his visit immensely :)

Part 2 - will include a visit to Penmon Point with the lighthouse and Puffin Island and then a trip to a castle that time forgot.


*D Photos taken by my son with the Canon SX50HS
Rest of photos taken by me with the Panasonic Lumix FZ330 bridge camera

Reference
Information booklet in the church
Information Boards
Website stainedglass.ligc.org.uk/site/262
CADW Welsh Historic Monuments "Anglesey A guide to the ancient monuments on the Isle of Anglesey"