Thursday, 26 July 2018

Isle of Wight - Day 5 Tuesday, 10th July - Niton, Freshwater and Tennyson Down







On Tuesday the weather was quite a bit cooler - thank goodness!

D went a walk on a different public footpath around Niton early a.m. so I have included his photos so you can see more views around the village. We do like Niton and the walking round the village is excellent. There was a rather superb house on the market at Niton Undercliff a few weeks before we went and to be honest as we are still considering moving to the island (although I don't think it will be in the short term unfortunately) I would have arranged a viewing it was that lovely with sea views too. Sadly, it disappeared from the website a few days before the holiday - I suspect it was taken off the market as usually if houses are sold subject to contract they remain on the website.


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A well camouflaged grasshopper.

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Niton is quite a hotspot for badgers - although we have only ever seen one there on the outskirts of the village.

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D picked up this plant outside a house where there was a notice saying "spare tomato plants - please take one". It came home with us - has been re-potted and already has 6 baby tomatoes.

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Today we went to Freshwater which is an unspoilt village with a picturesque cove where the beach is a mixture of grey flint and chalk pebbles. The cliffs are chalk laid down 96-65 million years ago and contain caves visible at low tide which were once used by smugglers.



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Herring Gull

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I am not sure if you will be able to read the information in the above photo even if it is enlarged. In the mid 19th century Freshwater became a retreat for artists, writers and photographers - the group of these became known as The Freshwater Circle.

Alfred Lord Tennyson moved here to Farringford House with his wife Emily to bring up their family. He lived here between 1853 and 1892. Once on the island he wrote "The Charge of the Life Brigade", "Crossing the Bar" and "Maud". He also finished his Arthurian epic "Idylls of the King". Tennyson entertained many writers, scientists and artists here and they would discuss subjects such as evolution and religion. They took long walks in the countryside exploring the landscape and even examining newly discovered dinosaur bones.

Charles Dodgson (Lewis Carroll) became part of Tennyson's Circle when he holidayed on the island in 1859. Alice Liddell spent her childhood at Freshwater where she modelled for the pioneering photographer Julia Margaret Cameron (who was also part of the Circle) at Dimbola Lodge. Lewis Carroll used to tell stories to Alice and her sister about a young girl called Alice and these tales were later published as "Alice's Adventures in Wonderland".

We visited Dimbola Lodge which is now a museum last year and its well worth a visit especially if you are interested in photography. Julia Cameron once took a portrait photograph in 1867 of John Herschel (mathematician, astronomer and chemist) and she considered him her first teacher as he had a great interest in photography making many important contributions.

Edward Lear (poet and illustrator) became a frequent visitor to Farringford.

George Frederic Watts (painter) who was known as "England's Michelangelo" moved to a house in Freshwater in 1874 to be close to the Freshwater Circle. He married the actress Ellen Terry (who was 30 years his junior) in 1864 and they spent their honeymoon at Dimbola although the marriage only lasted a year.

Many of the era's greatest writers, thinkers and artists visited either Tennyson or Cameron - these included

Robert Browning - poet and playwright
Sir Edward Byrne-Jones - artist
Thomas Carlyle - philosopher and essay writer
Charles Darwin - naturalist
Jenny Lind - opera singer
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow - poet
Sir John Everett Millais - painter and illustrator
Dante Gabriel Rossetti -poet, illustrator and painter
Anthony Trollope - novelist
William Makepeace Thackeray - novelist

It would have been interesting to have witnessed some of the discussions this group had!



I would have loved to have visited Farringford House which is now open to the public on certain days of the week but I knew the family having visited one house and garden i.e. Osborne wouldn't want to visit another one - perhaps next time.











I loved the transfer on this car.





There is a very good walk around a nature reserve called Afton Marshes which starts in the car park. The Marshes are good for birds and water voles - last time we saw water vole burrow entrance holes although sadly no water voles - I think there were too many dog walkers about. This time for a change we decided to walk up onto the Downs to Tennyson's Monument.










I couldn't believe how bleached and brown the Downs looked thanks to the long hot dry spell we are experiencing.

Looking back towards Freshwater.








Getting higher - apologies if these views are a bit repetitive!


Looking towards Yarmouth









Tennyson's monument in the distance


Scabious - the exposed situation meant the chalk down flower species were often stunted.


I would love to know what this species is should anyone know.









I sat on a bench for a while to get my breath back and cool down.

Compton and Timothy enjoying the views and glad that they were getting a lift and not walking!





Chalkhill Blue


Skylark- I think (I hadn't got my binoculars with me and the photo is not brilliant having been heavily cropped!)



Finally, the Tennyson Monument - we did think of walking onto the Needles but the thought of the walk back as it was getting hotter was a bit too much!


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We saw quite a few kestrels on the walk - the coastal grassland all along the Military Road is good for this species. I haven't bothered cropping the photo as the bird is too distant!

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Towards the start of the walk I had caught a fleeting glimpse of a Fritillary butterfly - for a moment I wondered if it might be Glanville (which still manages to elude me) although I thought it was too late in the year. By the monument we saw another one and D managed to get a photo which has been heavily cropped but this one was a Dark Green Fritillary.

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Walking back down which was a lot easier than going up!


A cooling ice cream in Freshwater.



In the evening we went for a very good meal at the White Lion which is only about 100 yards from the cottage.



*D Photos taken by my son with the Canon Sx50hs bridge camera - apologies if you see a dark smudge in the sky in some of the photos this holiday - there seems to be a problem internally with the lens. D has had to photoshop the dark smudge out on the photos he is keeping for himself. Not sure what we can do about it although I will contact Canon.

Rest of photos taken by me with the Panasonic Lumix FZ330 bridge camera



Next post will include a walk on Boniface Down (near the radar station featured in the Ghost Walk), then a trip to the Donkey Sanctuary at Wroxall followed by a cream tea at a delightful tearoom with a fairy garden in Shanklin Old Village.

I am sorry for posting so many posts over a short period of time - I know how difficult it can be to keep up when people do this so please don't worry if you can't read or comment on them all.







13 comments:

  1. What? A naturalist leaving home without binoculars? We may have to revoke your licence!

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  2. David Gascoigne - lol! I know a cardinal sin! Tbh I couldn't bear having anything else round my neck! I do have a cheap Nikon compact pair which are very light and really I should have worn those!

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  3. Finally have the time to go through your posts on your holiday. working my way backwards from day 5.. looking forward to seeing all your lovely photos and what you got up too.

    Interesting read, especially about the Freshwater Circle. Love the photos taken on the beach, what a lovely spot. The sun has bleached the land but it still looks a lovely place for a walk, I too would have found it to hot.

    Not sure if you named your Purple flower but just Googled "Wildflowers found on Tennyson Down" look at images. This one looks very similar to your photo.
    Early Gentian - Gentianella anglica: IW - Tennyson Down, Apr-Jun

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  4. Amanda Peters - Thanks so much for your lovely comment. Hopefully will visit Farringford House next time and learn more of the Freshwater Circle.

    Oh gosh unusually for the Isle of Wight it was hot and humid even at night. Luckily for the last few days it was much cooler.

    Thanks so much for researching the flower - because we don't live near chalk I always struggle with chalk downland species id. Will check out the the Early Gentian. Thanks again.

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  5. What beautiful views you've posted! I've not heard of the Freshwater Circle before, what an amazing array of people, i'd definitely have loved to be a fly on the wall there!

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  6. Lots of lovely things in this post. I find stories of artistic and literary/scientific circles fascinating and the Freshwater Circle attracted some of the greatest of their time. I hope you get to visit Farringford House next time you visit. You certainly fill your days with fascinating visits and walks:)

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  7. Pam - Thank you. Must admit I wouldn't have heard of the Freshwater Circle either if I hadn't visited Freshwater. Oh to be able to go back in time and eavesdrop :)

    Rosie - Thank you. You can learn a lot about the Freshwater Circle at Dimbola but yes I do so hope I can visit Farringford. I think the house may be guided tour only - not 100% sure but there is a garden as well. I shall have to do some research and see if there are any books available on that Circle.

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  8. Rosie - Just checked there is one on Amazon called Tennyson's Gift by Lynne Truss - but it appears more of a comedy book on the Circle so not sure I would enjoy. There is another one just checking that out now. There is one called The Freshwater Circle through the Looking Glass by Gail Downey Middleton which links the Circle with Lewis Carroll.

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  9. John Scurr - Thanks so much and yes we did although it was very hot!

    Thanks so much for help with flower id - I will get out the flower id books again - many of mine are very old too! Clustered Bellflower definitely rings a bell.

    Thank you so much re: the id of the bird and that you have actually suggested the species I initially thought!!! As mentioned I didn't have my binoculars with me and the photo even cropped is poor. Another couple there were watching it with binoculars and I said to them I think it is a meadow pipit and they looked at me rather scornfully and said well if that is what you think it is and laughed and I heard them muttering something about a skylark which sent me on what looks like the wrong track. Just goes to show not everyone with bins knows what they are talking about - had similar problems too with someone telling me the Fritillary I had seen must have been Glanville but when you look at the underwings it definitely wasn't!!!

    Not sure about the scabious - will come back to you when I have go the id books out! Usually I try to id things properly before posting but having massive problems at home over needing a new boiler and problems with electrics so have had surveyors and workmen in ad infitum....... so not getting much time apart from somewhow trying to cobble the posts together and upload photos! I have a reprint of the New Naturalist "Wildflowers of Chalk and Limestone" which one day I will read!!!

    You were also right about the climber in the garden :) Berries are forming!!! Will mention that too in a forthcoming post.

    Bear with me and I will check out those flowers and the bird and edit the post! Thanks so much again - your comments and help are always much appreciated.

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  10. Thank you again, RR. for such a wonderful trip, taking me in part down Memory Lane from Easter. We loved the Freshwater area with its lofty downland and Tennyson evocations (I can hear that deep voice booming 'Break, break break...' in my ear as I type). How exciting to see the Dark Green Fritillary: I had hoped to see one on Lindisfarne, but we may have been too early. David saw a ?Pearl-bordered one on the coast near Berwick. Such wonderful butterflies. I had hoped your flower was going to be a sort of Squill or Milkwort, but I don't think it is either. I must think harder! Actually, I will read your other comments now in case someone has told us. I'm so pleased you had such perfect weather for your Tennyson Down walk and that the bear friends enjoyed their day. I should like to visit Dimbola next time...

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  11. Caroline Gill - Thanks so much Caroline for all your lovely comments - they are greatly appreciated.

    Freshwater is quite special I think. Wonderful that David saw a Pearl-bordered - a species I am yet to see.

    You have just reminded me I have to check flower id - see comment from John Scurr above. Had British Gas Electrician in most of Friday and today doing work on electrics and finally tomorrow at long last they are due to fit the new boiler. Finding it hard to find time to do things!

    Dimbola is good - though the visit was rushed as they were shortly due to close! So hope I can get to Farringford House next time.

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  12. This looks like another lovely place to go walking. Lovely to see the kestrel.

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